I know this is a pretty basic thing to learn or know how to use BUT, I've seen realllllllllllll experienced guys screw up on how they put their line in the rigger clips! This isn't a lengthy topic but one worth of mentioning because I learned it the hard way, by loosing expensive gear. Its simple, just make sure your line in the clip is at a 90 degree angle when its in, and that there aren't a bunch of "line twists" at the top of the clip when you put it down. Many times that you put the line in and then start to lower it the rigger clip will spin around, and then spin your line around at the same time. What this does is put a helluva strain on that line right where its twisted, and over a period of time if you keep clipping it in the same spot, it will weaken and break. This is more of a "lazy" factor than anything else, you get it all hooked up and as its going down it twists and you go "it'll be fine!" and that's OK if its your gear you want to lose, but not your buddies. Very simple to fix, takes very little time, just do it right and it will eliminate those frustrating trips when you are lucky enough to get into that big fish. When you get the line back minus the hardware you'll have no one to blame but yourself!!
Don't clip it like the line below!!
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Planer Boards
Something new I've gotten into and I have to blame Jim for doing this, he's the one that showed me the boards he had and I of course had to get some! There are many different styles on the market with even more price differences but, for what I do and how I use them and the size of my boat, I've gone with the preverbal walleye style board. The big difference in this board as compared to the full blown double wood 10 lb board, other than price, is the size. Very small, light and relatively inexpensive, these boards on the last few outings have really proven their worth.
There are a couple of different theories for the use of planer boards, one is to give more action to the lure, especially when you've got wave conditions. You can only imagine what that lure looks like when the board is yanking out of the water and making all kinds of "spurting" motions!! The other theory is that it gets the lure further away from the boat, in other words, as you pass over those surface fish and the boat spooks them, they either go down or out to the sides of the boat and hence miss your lure which is trailing right behind the boat. The last few times out its been the latter theory that may be the reason why I'm taking a few more fish. The boards are easy to hook up BUT, one criticism is the method in which they release. At the rear of the board (see pic) is a peg that is spring loaded and always holds the line in that slot. On the front of the board is a clip similar to a downrigger clip. The way it is supposed to work is that when a fish hits your lure the line releases from the front clip but is held onto the line by that rear slot, and the board merely rides the line all the way down to the hook. This seems like it should be OK but, and I haven't tried this yet, with the board right in the fishes noodle I can see problems and the hook possibly being pulled out by the board. These little boards really pull when they are submerged so no doubt they'd do the same when a a fish is on. What I do (and what Jim suggested I do) is put out at least 100' of line behind the board, then clip it on tight so the line doesn't come off the board and then, when you get the board reeled to the boat just remove it. This does work pretty good but as mentioned sometimes that board digs into the water and it can be tough to get out! All in all though, if this little gizmo increases your odds of getting fish its a worthwhile investment, about $25.00 at Russell Sports in Calgary. There are some cheapo knockoffs so stick with the "Gary Roach" brand if you can, pretty good rig!
Flashers
I refer to flashers quite a bit and someone emailed me for some clarification so here it is. I use basically three sizes of flashers, the brand names sometimes are different but the design and motion of most are pretty much the same. Rather than an actual size I go with small, medium and large, as seen in picture. The smallest one is almost like a willow leaf when in use, especially if you have a spoon or larger lure behind it, it doesn't rotate but swings back and forth, kinda like a dodger. The middle one is the same, get to big a hook behind it and it will only swing rather than rotate, whereas the big mother can handle pretty much anything and will rotate. There really isn't one that I like better or use more, they all have their place on my lines! If you want to use the bigger spoons or Apexs go with the big flasher, you'll get maximum rotation and flash out of the setup. As with all the flashers, the closer your lure to the flasher the more action will be imparted to that lure. Later in the year I put a Hootchie Squirt behind the medium flasher with about 18" of leader and it really spins that thing around and the bows hit it like a salmon!! If the fishing is totally dead I throw on the big flasher with a big spoon, about 5' of leader and put it down at 100', lakers love it and don't be surprised if rainbows hit it as well! I've taken rainbows in this manner down as deep as 125'! The small flasher is used when I just want a bit more attraction to the lure, using 2-3' of leader or what you Apex has on it. Sometimes that little extra flash is all that's needed to turn a slow day into a great day!
Jet Divers
I had someone email me about Jet Divers or similar devices designed to get your lure down without having riggers or big weights on the line. I have tried most of the hardware in this area, Pink Ladys, Dipsy Divers, Jet Divers etc. etc. and yes, they do all get your stuff down there but, I still don't like having the extra stuff on the line! I know Charlie Wray on Fishful Thinking uses them quite a bit and seems to do really well with them while me on the other hand have yet to get a fish on using any of them! Personal choice though would be the Jet Diver, small, very little drag on the line but, without actually having a fish on I have no idea what they'd be like to reel in. The other devices have a release mechanism that allows the "diver" to straighten out and may have less drag to them when reeled in, fish on or not. I guess it all boils down to what works well for you, for now I'm still experimenting with the jet divers simply because they are so compact and I'm guessing that with a have decent fish on the drag would be quite minimal, if I find out you'll find out!!!
Lines
I was asked by a fellow angler just what kind of line I use on my reels, the only answer that made sense was "as big as your reel can handle!". I'm not going to get into a big wee wee match over what's best for everyone because there are to many different scenarios for different lines to talk about everything, so I'll only mention what works for me. My big single action mooching reel is always dressed up with 25lb test mono, flavor is up to you but I like the Maxima Ultra Green and on one reel I also am trying Berkley Big Game, and it seems to be working well! On my level winds I have one with 20lb Maxima while the other sports 30lb braided Spider Wire, only because I wanted to try some low stretch line for those long line times when the fish just don't hook up well. Just make sure if you use whatever type of low stretch line that you have a rod that is somewhat supple, as it will be taking up all the pounding the fish gives as the line won't be supplying any shock absorbing help! This stuff works real well for that and if your concerned about the fish complaining that they can see the braided line then dress the tip with a chunk of fluorocarbon and that'll stop their whining! I know, there's those out there that say the line is too heavy and it'll spook the fish and they always use 8-10 lb max and will catch more fish than me!! Whatever!! If you want to try and bring up a 10lb laker on 8 lb test line, by the time you get it to the surface the thing will probably not survive the release. Sure, it can be done, but I'd rather have a little more strength to my line and get the fish in quicker and release it quicker, to each their own. As well, when you use a downrigger as much as I do, that lighter line will just not stand up to the abrasion caused by that clip. When I first started out on this "adventure" I actually had line break on me right where I always clipped to, and that was 20 lb test line! I learned my lesson and now even with the heavier line I change the "clip spot" as much as I can. There is no doubt that there are situations where that lighter line will catch more fish, such as fly fishing, where the fish actually has more time to view the meal. However, when your trolling deeper water and doing speeds of 2-4 mph, I don't think the line is going to have to much play in if the fish strikes, especially instinctive strikes, they're just gonna pound the lure! Hey, if you are uneasy with the heavy line to what the hook is attached to then do as I did and go to a bit lighter leader, but just make sure its compatible with the rest of the line, in other words don't be hooking 6lb test to the 25lb test. Oh, one other line set up I do have on board is another single action reel with some 50lb braided line, you never know when you'll want to throw on some jigging stuff for cod or lakers, and that's where the low stretch really works well on the hook ups!! Trial and error and it all depends on what kind of fishing you want to do. If your a troller then a bit bigger line, if your a spin caster then a bit lighter line (my spin casters have 10 and 12 lb test on them) and a fly fisher, well, go with your 2lb test tippet, I'll keep my dressed with 5lb just cause!! One point I will make about lures though, if you notice those Apex's your buying have different line strengths, some have 8 and some have 30lb!! Over the years I've changed up the lighter weight ones to heavier material and they still perform and catch as many fish as the light stuff!
Remote Steering Arm For Kickers
Quick and simple, its just a galvanized piece of ready rod, threaded on both ends for adjustment and then a quick release coupler on both ends. A small bracket with a "tit" is attached to the main motor and one on the kicker, the rod then goes in-between to join them up, steering via the wheel!! You can buy them at Crappy Tire for about $35.00, stainless steel is more, but they are alot cheaper than say those made by EasySteer who want a couple hundred bucks. I had a similar setup on the inboard I had on my Trophy, a bit more awkward to hook up but it was worth it!! In rough water using this style of steering could also prevent someone from going overboard whilst they are hanging their butt over the stern trying to steer! Another nice feature (for outboards) is that when you do get a fish on and want to steer from the rear, the rod easily pops off the kicker and then you can manually steer at the stern if so desired.
